Wild About Wild Life

Seeings how people from all over the world read this site, I thought it would be a great idea to feature some wildlife in their neck of the world. India has a lot of rich history and facinating tales, so I thought I would feature another facinating TAIL – The Eurasian Hoopoe of India.

The name “Eurasian” is a two part word meaning European and Asian, thus the name Eur-asian. Eurasia is a large landmass covering about  20,846,000 mi or about 10.6% of the  Earth’s surface . Often considered a single  continent,  Eurasia comprises the traditional continents of   Europe and Asia (and Eurasia is a  portmanteau or the blending of two or more words and their meaning into one word, of the two), concepts which date back to   classical antiquity and the borders for which are somewhat arbitrary.

Here is a wonder of India call the Eurasian Hoopoe bird. These monogamous little guys love to nest in any hole they can get to. From cliff, to crevices between rocks, to trees, walls, you name it, they are big time cavity dwellers. The Eurasian Hoopoe a a medium sized bird whose plumage on the chest varied from chestnut to a pink brown color. Their broad back, wings and tail are typically black and white. The erectile crest is the same color as the head and tipped with black. These little insect controllers have a long , slender and curved bill with a type of modified muscle which allows the bird to open its bill as it probes for food. Both male and female have small leg stucture and the babies, or juveniles are duller than adults with shorter bills and lighter colors.

What do these wonders of nature do for food? What do they consider Yum Yums? Well, they are a bird and this particular type likes to munch on insects, mainly, specifically larvae and pupae. Centipedes, earthworms, spiders and other creepy crawly things they will munch on also. It has been recorded that the Eurasian Hoopoe will partake in a frog or lizard and an occasional small snake also.  You will find these guys constantly making short probes in the ground because this is where they often hunt –  in short grass and on bare soil, but at times will stop to incert their full bill into the ground, opening and closing to test the object targeted or to seize it up.

The Eurasian Hoopoe is no stranger to human habitation. They are certainly found around human population. They are great climbers of rough surfaces and like to roost in cavities at night.  The male is the one who takes the lead, selects the nest site and establishes the territory.  The facinating this about their nesting habits is the fact that they may inhabit the same nest for 4-5 years. The female will produce one egg per day and the clutch size it 5 to 8. They incubate the eggs for 15 – 18 days and the female is the ONLY one who performs this. After about 6 days the youngsters will begin to feed theirself and then remain with mom and dad for the next few weeks.

These guys have a distinctive flight pattern with erratic, butterfly- like flapping. They can climb through rough surfaces and are ready to perch at anytime.

Interestingly enough, there is a book of poems in Persian by Farid ud-Din Attar called “The Conference of the Birds”, which is a great example of Persian poetry and this book has clever word play.  The “Simorgh” is a mysterious bird in Iranian mythology which is a symbol often found in sufi literature and similar tothe phoenix bird. “Si Morgh” means 30 birds in Persian. The poem uses a journey by a group of 30 birds, led by a hoopoe as an allegory of a Sufi sheikh or master leading his pupils to enlightenment.

These birds are also great for insect control. For those of you in Asia, Africa or India that would like some unique idead on attracting and harboring these birds in your yards, please visit : www.wildlife-houses.com  As always, Happy Birding!

 

 

Special Thanks to Wikipedia

People consider the Cedar Waxwing to be the most elegant of all the western birds.  With its slender form and intelligent face make it simple to spot, but most bird watchers know that the way to find the Cedar Waxwing is to listen for it.  The high-pitched zee zee is often the first indicator that these charming birds are nearby. Though they are inconspicuous in the summertime, in winter they travel in flocks of 40 birds or more. In our neighborhood, they flock to the winter fruit of the persimmon tree, which provides a generous meal.

A few cool facts about these little guys are:

• Latin Name: Bombycilla cedrorum
  Size: 6 1/2″ – 8″
  Color: Fawn colored with black mask and chin, yellow belly, white undertail.
  Voice: A high pitched, whistling zee zee zee.
  Habitat: Mixed forests, orchards, and city parks with berry-bearing trees.
  Range: Most of the United States.
  Bird feeder? Because the Cedar Waxwing feeds primarily on fruit, a seed feeder is unlikely to attract attention. Rather, planting trees and shrubs with winter fruit will be your best plan for inviting these birds to your yard.

The name “waxwing” comes from the waxy red secretions found on the tips of the secondaries of some birds. The exact function of these tips is not known, but they may help attract mates.  The Cedar Waxwing is one of the few North American birds that specializes in eating fruit. It can survive on fruit alone for several months. Brown-headed Cowbirds that are raised in Cedar Waxwing nests typically don’t survive, in part because the cowbird chicks can’t develop on such a high-fruit diet.

Building a nest takes a female Cedar Waxwing 5 to 6 days and may require more than 2,500 individual trips to the nest. They occasionally save time by taking nest materials from other birds’ nests, including nests of Eastern Kingbirds, Yellow-throated Vireos, orioles, robins, and Yellow Warblers.  

Cedar Waxwings with orange instead of yellow tail tips began appearing in the northeastern U.S. and southeastern Canada in the 1960s. The orange color is the result of a red pigment picked up from the berries of an introduced species of honeysuckle. If a waxwing eats enough of the berries while it is growing a tail feather, the tip of the feather will be orange.  Many birds that eat a lot of fruit separate out the seeds and regurgitate them, but the Cedar Waxwing lets them pass right through. Scientists have used this trait to estimate how fast waxwings can digest fruits.   Because they eat so much fruit, Cedar Waxwings occasionally become intoxicated or even die when they run across overripe berries that have started to ferment and produce alcohol.  There little bodies simply cannot handle such brew.

 

These little guys are quite a wonder. The best way to visually track the Cedar Waxwing is with a pair of good binoculars. Here are some good ones for your review:   http://www.wildlife-houses.com/index.php?cPath=22&osCsid=56905971c4905e0882f859f795d4b24f   As always, Happy Birding!!!

If you haven’t done so already, NOW is a good time to get your bird houses set up and put out. The best way to get birds to inhabit your artificial cavities is to have them out before breeding season begins which should be right around late summer or early fall. This will give your local and native wild birds plenty of time to locate the houses, as it may take some time to do so. The time frame you set them out should be more than enough to allow the houses to be well-weathered by the time the birds occupy. If you want to provide a safe haven for annual migratory birds, then it would be a good idea to keep the bird houses up all year around for them to have a “rest area” of sorts, or a place to hang their hat while on their journey. After the nesting season, you can take them down for cleaning and then put them back up again. 

There are instances that birds will not begin nesting immediately as it takes time for birds to find a birdhouse. If it is impossible to set-up birdhouses by fall, they should be in place as early as possible in the winter. Bird watchers should not wait to see birds in their yards before mounting or hanging their nest boxes.

As discussed in earlier posts, location of the birdhouse is just as important in attracting certain kinds of birds as the size of the box. For instance, Purple Martins are very particular about the size of the box, the hole, the height, etc.  Birds, depending on the species,  may prefer wooded to shady area or open grassy areas. (For more information on what the local birds in your neck of the woods prefer, visit: http://www.wildlife-houses.com/product_info.php?cPath=13&products_id=307&osCsid=8d168d8ac0d7a5bf1f2436f6dedc2b0f     However, dense shade is not recommended, as most wild birds prefer a sunny open space. It is not advisable to mount birdhouses on the sides of trees as this can give squirrels and cats easy access to it.

The last thing you want to do is to put up your birdhouses and artificial cavities in the Spring, as it just may be too late and you’ll miss out on enjoying the inhabitation and activies of joy that your native birds bring as they occupy your bird house.

For a great selection of edible and decorative bird houses, suet, feeders, birdbath’s, book, dvd, toys, etc….visit The Birdhouse Outlet @ www.wildlife-houses.com And be sure and get your feeders and birdhouses out NOW so you can be ready to help and house your native wildbirds and help in the natural pollination and preservation of wildlife. And looking forward to hearing your success stories come Spring time. It’s not too far away. Best Wishes and Happy Birding to ALL of you.

Birdbaths

Birdbaths are the fastest and easiest way to add water to your backyard when you are wanting to provide the BEST experience for your humming birds and other north american birds, and any other wild, native birds in your area of the world.  Birdbaths come in three basic designs: 

• Pedestal: These classic birdbaths stand three to four feet above the ground and include a post-style base on an elevated dish. Pedestal birdbaths may be plastic, metal or concrete and come in many decorative designs and colors. Some models also include small fountains or bubblers.
• Dish: A simple saucer or shallow bowl can be used for a dish birdbath. Dishes can be used at different heights by being placed on the ground, a fence, patio table or patio rail, stump or steps. Hanging dishes and models that attach to deck railings are available and are especially great for birds that inhabit hanging nests such as the Orioles and Wrens.
• Heated: A heated birdbath is essential in colder climates. It takes a lot of energy to melt snow to drink, and birds willingly visit available water sources all year round which will make your bird watching much more enjoyable. Heater accessories can be added to existing birdbaths. Fully heated models are available as well.  For more information, visit: http://www.wildlife-houses.com/index.php?cPath=5&&page=2

For birds to feel comfortable using a birdbath, it should not be more than two or three inches deep with a slight, gripping slope along the edges. Adding an overturned saucer or level rocks to the center of the bath can add a shallower section or island for birds to use. The birdbath should also have rough surfaces to provide traction when wet.

Misters

Misters are a favorite way for hummingbirds to find water and they will often hover in a mister repeatedly on a hot day. Misters also provide moving water to attract other birds, and if they are properly positioned they will drip into a birdbath for even more motion.

Misters may be attached to birdbaths or they can come as separate water features that attach to a garden hose. For the best effect, position the mister in a partially shaded area that has several perches available.

Ponds

Backyard ponds of any size can attract songbirds and water fowl when positioned around any nesting cavity, bird house or birds nest. The pond should have areas that are shallow enough for small birds to bathe and the water level should reach perches for easy drinking access.

Ponds can often be combined with waterfalls or streams to add moving water to attract even more birds. It is a good idea to add arificial butterflies, native plants,  fish and other natural elements will help create both food sources and shelter that will make the water especially attractive to warblers,  ducks, geese and other water birds.

Waterfalls

Waterfalls can cascade into a pond or be independent pool. Kee in mind, that the water flow will create a dynamic drinking and bathing area for your local, native birds. The movement and noise of the water will interest many birds, and structuring the waterfall to help birds access the water The waterfall should include shallow basins that collect water. Some birds will stand under small water streams, but heavy falls are less desirable. Natural materials such as slate and native rock will be the most attractive to birds. Add wild bird-friendly landscaping around the waterfall to create a habitat with food plants and shelter for native birds to enjoy the BEST experience.

An artificial or natural stream adds flowing water to a backyard landscape that will be especially attractive to wild birds. Adding rocks will create perches and keep the water depth suitable for birds to bathe and drink. If the stream is large enough to include a small bridge, nest boxes can be added beneath the bridge to attract swallows and other birds that thrive on the insects near water. Placing a stream near a nest birds bird feeder is another thought of location as well.

Cleaning Water Features for Birds

Water features will attract the most birds when the water is clean and fresh, even those who may be participating in bird migration. Standing water features such as birdbaths and dishes should be cleaned daily, while moving and flowing water will naturally stay fresher and can be cleaned less frequently. Flowing water is a natural cleanser of birds feathers and grime and will also be a great attraction of migratory birds as well. A garden bird bath placed near by will add to the attraction as well.

Any bird enthusiast  should never add harsh chemicals to water features to control algae growth or purify water. Keep in mind that feeding birds may be subject to the dangers of these chemicals. This whole atmosphere is to promote natural pollination and natural insect control in your yard. Even in small concentrations, such chemicals can be dangerous to birds. Pesticide, fertilizer and herbicide use should also be limited near bird water features.

*For more information on this subject, consider this:  http://www.wildlife-houses.com/product_info.php?cPath=13&products_id=309

One of the most important things that a birder can do to attract native birds to their yards is to install a birdbath. No matter what species, all birds need water and adding one or more water features to your yard will attract them. Let’s take a look at some of the options that we can use to best fit not only our yard, but also our pocket book. I hope these ideas will benefit you and your native bird friends.

Why Birds Need Water

Birds need water for two reasons: drinking and preening (To smooth or clean (feathers) with the beak or bill.)  Water helps keep a bird’s body cool both from the inside and outside. Water baths can also remove dust, loose feathers, parasites and other debris from a bird’s plumage. Offering water in your backyard will attract more wild birds than just food sources, since birds that would not normally visit feeders can be tempted by water features. Most all birds will attract to include: hummingbirds, north american birds, and native birds.

Most Popular Types of Water

Any water is an improvement on a dry backyard, but standing water is the least effective for attracting birds. While they will eventually find it, standing water is not dynamic enough for many migrating birds or casual bird species to notice.

Moving water will attract more birds because the motion catches their eye and they can hear any dripping, sprinkles or splashes. Adding a jiggler accessory to a standing birdbath adds motion easily. A hose dripping into a dish or pond can have a similar effect and will attract more wild birds.  Active splashes can be heard from quite a distance and will attract a wide range of bird species.  Flowing water, such as waterfalls, also stays cleaner and is less likely to harbor parasites or bacteria that could harm birds.

Different Options to Offer Birds Water

There are several ways to offer birds water in your backyard. The most popular options include:

• Birdbaths
• Misters
• Ponds
• Waterfalls
• Streams

In our next segment, we will look at the many options that are available to suit your needs in your yard as well as what will be the most effective for the native birds in your local area. We’ll look at different types of bird baths, misters and ponds. For those of you that really want to enhance the ornighological experience in your yard and have the time and money, we will even cover waterfalls and streams and cleaning water features for the baths and birds.

If you have any questions concerning this or any other topic, write to me at: freedomenterprises@bresnan.net or for some water ideas for your particular yard and birds species, take a look at:  http://www.wildlife-houses.com/index.php?cPath=9&osCsid=cd424104c70f0e81ed664b589bbed813

HAPPY BIRDING!!!

For those of us who want to help native birds by building birdhouses, here are a few tips for you to consider. Now really, for these type of “tenants”, a wood shack is as good as a palace. If you shop at Walmart, just look up into the bar joists of the building and you may see a nest or two. A birds demands are quite simple: a floor, a foof over its heae, walls and a door just large enough to squeese through. Birds like chickadees, tufted titmice and bluebirds are just a few  that nest in tree cavities, which are numerous in dead trees. But in suburban and urban areas, dead trees tend to be cleared away and young trees don’t have near the cavity capacity needed to house your local feathered friends. So what is one to do? Well, you can build your own birdhouse if you’d like to try your hand at something new.

MATERIALS NEEDED:

• Raw, unpainted / untreated wood about 1/2 inch thick
• Galvanized or brass shank nails, hinges and screws
• Saw
• Drill
• Hammer
• Screwdriver
• Wood glue
• Paint, for EXTERIOR painint only (Do not paint the inside of the birdhouse or risk fatally injuring them)

In considering how you build your birdhouse, be sure to stay away from metal as the sun heats it up in the daytime. Birdhouse walls should be about 3/4 inch thich and this is suggested from the Fish and Wildlife Service. If the wood is smooth, try scoring the interior walls with a knife of roughing it up with some heavy grit sand paper so the baby birds will be able to climb out. One of the walls or the bottom should be able to pivot out to accomodate cleaning.

The Roof should be sloped, to allow water to drain off. And the enterance hole should be about 2/3 up from the bottom, which makes it less accessible to predatorss and allows the birds to build their nests without blocking the door. Don’t Forget: Drainage ! Small holes cut in the corners of the floor, and ventilation in the tope. You don’t want the roof and the top to fit to tight at the sides as stated in the Audubon Society Guide to Attracting Birds. If there are some cracks, it’s fine.

Regardless of the type of birdhouse, it should be hung at least 4 – 5 feet off of the ground. Northern states birdhouses should face the east so the sun warms them a little earlier which can make a big difference in the spring.

To attract local birds to the birdhouses, landscape with native plants, reducing the amount of closely cropped lawns and forgoing chemicals and fertilizers. All of these measures make for a healthier environment for birds and people.

**Not a Master Craftsman/woman? Then check out some of the 100’s of varieties of different birdhouses, nesting shelves and dwelling places here: www.wildlife-houses.com  You’re bound to find something you’ll……I mean they’ll…like. )

One of the most beautiful bird species of all North American birds is the Cardinal. This is a facinating bird from its vibrant red and black colors to its flight patterns and a great eyeful to watch as they feed. We want to look at some cool facts concerning these wild birds, which are an all-time favorite amongst most backyard birds. There is probably not another bird that looks good with a snow back drop as does the Northern Cardinal.  The word cardinals, which means “principle,” comes from the Latin “cardo” for “a hinge or pivot.” This bird is named for its color which matches the robes of Catholic Cardinals.Cardinals have greatly increast their breeding range over the past 80 years. Cardinals do not migrate, but simply keep pushing farther and farther North and West as suburbs and bird feeders proliferate. The Cardinal ranges throughout most of the Eastern and Central states, the entire South and much of the arid Southwestern states.

HOUSING: Cardinals prefer dense, shrubby habitat. If that is provided in your neck of the woods, or in your yard, then you will keep this feathered beauties happy. The nest in the shrubs and viney tangles at least twice every summer. If the shrubs provide fruit, then that is even better. Some of the shrubs you may want to consider when attracting a Cardinal are Junipers, Dogwoods, Honeysuckle and Viburums.

SEED DIET: The Seeds that the Cardinal prefers are Black Oil Sunflower and Safflower, or a mixture of both. The Cardinal’s large bill also allows them to crack open the larger striped sunflower seeds. WATER: Like most other birds, having a year-round water source is a great help in attracting Cardinals. Just to name a few of their favorites which include: Deck Mounted Bird Baths, Heated Bird Baths and Hanging Bird Baths w/ a copper, rough surface which causes the bird to feel safe.

HOUSING: Unfortunately, the Cardinal will not use a nesting box. They like the fruit bearing shrubs and viney vegitation for their nesting pleasure.

FEEDERS AND FEEDER PLACEMENT: The Cardinal is not a real hard wild bird to please. If you provide their favorite seeds, they will often be the first bird that you feed in the morning, and the last one you’ll see feeding at night. In the Spring, you’ll enjoy seeing the male Cardinal offer the female a carefully selected seed as part of their Mate Feeding Ritual. Cardinals are also good ground feeders, however, they will feed on flat surfaces also. They prefer a wider perch when feeding. The perches on most tube feeders are too small for them to feed on so a regular feeder would suit them best.

Best to you as you endeavor to attract these Christmas Card beauties. They are a real joy to watch and listen to also. For more information on how you can attract Northern Cardinals and find out more about them, simply go to:  http://www.wildlife-houses.com/product_info.php?cPath=13&products_id=281

It’s been awhile since we featured a bird of the week.  Have you seen the white-breasted nuthatch crawling down a tree? There’s a good reason for this. Learn how to attract the white-breasted nuthatch to your yard. Hope you enjoy the fun facts as you familiar yourself with this little guy, who is very popular in the U.S. Happy Birding!

Here are some fun facts about the White-Breasted Nuthatch, our featured feathered friend of the week.

• Scientific Name: Sitta carolinensis.
• Family: Nuthatch.
• Length: 5-3/4 inches.
• Wingspan: 11 inches.
• Distinctive Markings: Males and females look similar, with a short tail, bluish-gray back and wings, black cap and white breast.
• Nest: Hair, fur and shredded bark built in natural cavities and birdhouses. Lays five to 10 white eggs with multicolored markings.
• Song: Nasal “yank-yank-yank” call.
• Habitat: Area with plentiful trees.
• Diet: Insects and larvae; pine, fir and maple seeds; mountain ash and juniper berries; oak, beech and hickory nuts.
• Backyard Favorites: Sunflower seeds, unsalted peanuts, birdseed mix and suet.

The White-breasted Nuthatch is normally territorial throughout the year, with pairs staying together. The male has to spend more time looking out for predators when he’s alone than while he’s with his mate. That’s the pattern for most birds, and one reason why birds spend so much time in flocks. But the female nuthatch has to put up with the male pushing her aside from foraging sites, so she spends more time looking around (for him) when he’s around than when she is alone.

In winter, White-breasted Nuthatches join foraging flocks led by chickadees or titmice, perhaps partly because it makes food easier to find and partly because more birds can keep an eye out for predators. One study found that when titmice were removed from a flock, nuthatches were more wary and less willing to visit exposed bird feeders.

If you see a White-breasted Nuthatch making lots of quick trips to and from your feeder – too many for it to be eating them all – it may be storing the seeds for later in the winter, by wedging them into furrows in the bark of nearby trees.

The oldest known White-breasted Nuthatch was 9 years 10 months old.

* For more information on how you can attract these little guys and feed them with suet, etc visit: www.wildlife-houses.com !

When considering a tube feeder or a hopper feeder, one is not necessarily better than the other. Hopper feeders, because of their ease of access to the seed, tend to attract a larger variety of birds. This sometimes include grackles, which can wipe out a supply of seed in a hurry. Tube feeders tend to discourage larger species. If grackles are a problem try using a tube feeder, maybe even shortening the perch. This will often leave the tube feeder available for finches, nuthatches and other smaller species. No matter what type of feeder that you choose, there are a few basic facts to consider.

 1.  Wooden parts of feeders should be made of weather-resistant cedar or be stained or painted to protect against moisture.

2.   Feeders should be easy to clean.

3.   Plastic feeders should be reinforced with metal around the feeding ports to discourage squirrels. Perches should be metal or a replaceable dowel.

4.   Look for durable construction to provide you and your birds years of enjoyment.        

Here are a few differences between the two feeders that may be helpful to you, when selecting the right type of feeders for the birds that inhabit your area or that you wish to attract to yer neck of the woods.

 

Hopper Feeders: There are a lot of different styles, but the basic style looks like a barn, gazebo or covered bridge:

• Hopper feeders hold a lot of seed, eliminating the need to fill them daily.
• The lift-off roofs make them easy to refill
• The sides are usually panels of Plexiglas, so you can see when the feeder needs a refill of seed.
• Hopper feeders can be pole-mounted or hung from a tree limb or hook
• Look for a hopper feeder that can be disassembled and cleaned.
• Any type of bird feed can be used in a hopper feeder.
• Small and large birds such as doves, jays, grosbeaks, cardinals and woodpeckers can land and feed comfortably 

 

Tube Feeders long cylinders with perches at the feeding ports. Tube feeders are available in upside-down and seed tray models:

• Tube feeders discourage squirrels.
• Tube feeders are usually used for small woodland birds like chickadees, titmice, woodpeckers, nuthatches and finches
• Tube feeders usually have holes large enough for sunflower seeds to fit through. Some tube feeders are made especially for tiny thistle or niger seeds.
• Make sure there is no dead space at the bottom port. Seed can collect, rot and mold.
• The perches on tube feeders are small and discourage large birds such as cardinals, blue jays, grackles, blackbirds and doves.

  

*For more information on tube bird feeders and hopper bird feeders, simply visit: www.wildlife-houses.com.

One of the most frustrating things can be the purchase of a bird or wildlife feeder and nothing seems to bite. This can be a question of all of us, “Where in the World did all the Birds Go?” “Why aren’t they nipping at my feeders and inhabiting my birdhouse?” I  hope these facts will help alleviate some of the frustration and discouragement that many face after their feeder has been installed. Hang in there all, the birds will return.

 

Each fall and winter Massachusetts Audubon Society receives a number of calls from concerned citizens asking, in essence: “Where have all the birds gone?” Where there were once a lot of birds in the yard or at feeders, now there are almost none. How come? Unless there has been a significant change in the immediate area of a feeder, or in the local habitat, the answer will usually be explained by population dynamics. Populations of all songbirds are subject to natural fluctuations from year to year. These are usually associated with widespread success or failure during the breeding season, which in turn is related to weather, food supply, predators, and other conditions.                                                                                                                                               

BIRD POPULATIONS VARY WITH THE SEASONS
Many people are under the impression that the birds they see in their yards from day to day are, like the trees and shrubs, constant elements. In fact, however, bird populations are extremely dynamic. For instance, there are some years when most, if not all, of the summering chickadees, Blue Jays, and other “resident” birds are replaced by a different wintering population. Because individuals of a species look pretty much the same, shifts in feeding birds usually go unnoticed except when concentrations become unusually large or when the out-going visitors are not immediately replaced by a new group of hungry customers.

When struck by a worrisome disappearance of birds in the early fall, people may start searching nearby woodlots and their fears are confirmed. Where recently the woods were full of songful birds there is now a pall of silence and inactivity. This too is completely normal. Except for unusually loquacious species such as mockingbirds, bird song essentially ceases by late summer. Because bird song is such an integral part of our outdoor experience, on a nice day in September we often fail to notice its absence unless we’re listening for it. Once they have left their breeding territories, birds tend to coalesce into feeding flocks, and it is not unusual for extensive sections of the landscape to be birdless when such a flock or flocks are elsewhere. There is nothing alarming about a prolonged silence in the depths of an autumn forest.

BIRDS FIND FOOD IN THE WILD
Wild foods include berries, weed seeds, mast (acorns and other nuts), and invertebrate sources such as lace bug larvae. These foods are subject to fluctuating availability both seasonally and from year to year. Birds will concentrate in regions where wild foods are particularly plentiful, thus leaving areas where there is less bounty. The availability of food in the wild will affect the number of winter residents, for example, if there is a poor mast crop in Massachusetts, Blue Jays will migrate farther south to where natural foods are more abundant. When Massachusetts experiences an unusually open winter in the early part of the season, the fields remain open, and the weed seeds are available to seedeaters, especially Dark-eyed Juncos and Tree Sparrows.

FALL WEATHER INFLUENCES WINTER POPULATIONS
Weather during the fall migration period is another factor that determines which birds will winter in Massachusetts. Some understanding of the mechanics of bird migration helps explain this relationship. Although we all recognize that the general trend of bird migration in the fall is southward, it is probably less well known that there is a significant movement of mostly immature birds that fly north in the fall. Apparently birds take their directional cues from the weather, and when a strong spring-like flow of warm southwest wind is the dominant weather pattern, they fly north. Most of these misguided waifs eventually move south, but if the northward movement has taken place late in the season and the internal drive to migrate has lessened, then they may spend the winter in the inhospitable northland, some to perish, some to survive. The number of Brown Thrashers and Northern Orioles, etc., that linger is almost solely dependent upon the weather influences of the late fall.

FEEDER FRUSTRATIONS
Many who ask “where are the birds?” have just put up their feeders for the season or for the first time ever. No flocks have descended. The feeders remain full of seed. Even the cardinals that nested in the yard haven’t come. The worried birdwatcher becomes suspicious that the bird seed is at fault, undertakes a thorough cleaning of the feeders, replacing the seed or even buying brand new. It is normal for weeks or even months to elapse before birds recognize and frequent a new feeding station. There are some considerations in the placement of a feeder which will affect the number of birds which will use it. Proximity to a sheltered staging area such as a bush provides for quick escape from predators and increases feeder visitation.

Finally, day to day visitation at a feeder may be influenced by neighborhood predators. Birds make themselves scarce when threatened by predators such as cats and hawks. It is not uncommon for a sharp-shinned hawk to frequent a feeding station while there are abundant birds there as easy prey. This is usually a temporary situation, if the birds are scared away the hawk will soon move on to other territory. For more information on feeders refer to the Massachusetts Audubon Society publication “Attracting Birds with Food.” Feeding birds is an increasingly popular winter activity, therefore it is possible that there is local competition for birds at backyard bird feeding stations. We encourage people to persist in their efforts and, as always, patience will be rewarded.

(*Special Thanks To the Mass Audubon Society)

***For more information on edible birdhouses, feed and wild life room and board products, simply visit www.wildlife-houses.com or if you have questions, please contact me at freedomenterprises@bresnan.net  Happy Birding!